- re-shimmed oil filter canister to 3.3 (no change)

- changed oil pump, including cover. The old one looked like a piece of metal had gotten in damaged the cover and rotor. (still no change in problem though).

- Changed oil pressure gauge to one from another bike which is working (no change in problem)

- Changed engine oil (15w40)

- removed and checked sump, the metal grate had come loose)

- changed white high pressure o-ring

- changed black square o-ring (in oil filter cover)

- shimmed canister to 3.1mm (from 4.2mm depth)

- checked reed valve for any problems, and turned it around

- changed oil pressure switch (no change in oil pressure problem)

- removed oil filter cover gasket

- removed grease in swingarm caps (trying to make sure there is enough airflow to the swingarm)

- cleaned breather bolt on transmission

- added 200cc oil to transmission

- added 450cc engine oil (15w40)

- replaced lower IMO Remote control button

- Changed oil 15w40

- Changed oil filter

- Changed final drive oil (80w90)

- Changed transmission oil (800cc)

- Adjusted valves both sides

- Changed oil pressure gauge (leaking)

- Changed rear tire (Michelin Sirac with new tube)

- Put some copper lubricant on back of front brake pads to quiet them down

- Replaced bottom right cylinder stud with a manufactured stud with 12mm treads in the block and 10mm outside (standard). The block had been messed up trying to put a helicoil in, therefore the larger hole.

- Checked timing

- Topped up engine oil (added .5lt)

- Changed the final drive oil

- Checked transmission oil

- Replaced nut on right lower box frame (had been stripped in car accident, in Brazil)

- cleaned electrical connectors on charging system

- tested charging system = ok

- replaced front brake fluid reservoir

- cleaned and lubricated brake lever

- cleaned and lubricated brake piston

- replaced screws on brake reservoir

- replaced two bolts on left front axel

- disassembled and cleaned brake caliper, piston and seal. Right piston is pretty beat up but functional

- Replaced right side cylinder o-rings

- Replaced right side valve guide seals

- Replaced right side cylinder gasket.

- Set valves

- Replaced bolts on exhaust flange (both sides)

- Replaced transmission casing bolt, bottom right side

- re-routed throttle cables

- cleaned / adjusted carburators

- replaced fuel lines

- replaced fuel quick connectors

- Replaced Final drive bearing (with correct "C3" bearing)

- Inserted new o-ring in final drive casing

- New final drive seal

- Replaced all the bolts in the final drive casing

- Inserted new brake protection tube

- Replaced rear brake pads

- Put new o-rings on brake shaft

- Re-welded and straightened box frame

- Replaced all the rubber lining on the box frame with inner tube

- Fixed flat rear tire

- replaced hydralic line on rear shock

- cleaned oil cooler

- changed final drive oil

- tested alternator = ok

- changed regulator back to police version

- changed diode board

- added .75lt 20w50

- lubricated and re-routed throttle cables

- lubricated throttle

- re-torqued steering head bearing

- adjusted carbs

- re-soldered the alternator brush (left side was loose, and shorter than other side)

- replaced steering head bearings

- replaced final drive main bearing (with the wrong ie. non C3 bearing which was not available)

- replaced final drive oil seal (a modified standard seal which was cut to the correct depth)

- greased driveshaft (no play)

- new rear tire, Michelin Sirac 130/80-17 (tube type)

- new oil in final drive

- new o-rings in the brake shaft

- changed engine oil, 1.5liter 20w50

- changed transmission oil, 1 liter 90w

- changed final drive oil, 90w

- adjusted valves (left ok, right a little loose)

- changed front disk brake pads

- tightened & straightened the rear foot pegs

- lubricated the turnsignal switch

- washed air filter

- oiled air filter w/ k&n filter oil

- replaced front tube with new continental (valve came off the old tube!)

- washed bike

- cleaned front disk

- re-torqued steering head bearings

- tied rear fender to box frame on right side to give tire more clearance

- changed engine oil, 2liter 20w50

- changed oil filter

- replaced damaged oil temp sensore with new one (M10x1.0, touratech pt# 01-015-0001-0)

- changed transmission and final drive oil. 90w

- changed the regulator to the black one (police version), for more voltage at lower rpm

- adjusted valves

- replaced clutch cable (old one starting to fray, but still usable)

- replaced plastic grommet in clutch lever

- cleaned and lubricated the throttle assembly and grip.

- re-mounted mascots (bart on left, fish bone on right)

- changed spark plug cables (caps rusting)

- added 600cc 20w50 engine oil

- added 1.75lt oil 20w50. Oil had been pumped out of the bike for shipping.

- cleaned electrical contacts under tank

- replaced battery on the IMO100r300 board computer, read the description here.

- replaced single seat with the standard double seat.

- fixed headlight adjustment screws with zip ties.

- checked transmission/final drive fluid = ok

- cleaned contacts for the horn

- mounted new mascot (Bart Simpson)

- replaced left driver footpeg, which was bent during shipping.

- installed 2 passanger footpegs

- changed engine oil 20w50

- changed gear oil (final and transmission) 90w

- washed bike

- adjusted valves, both sides a were a little tight.

- replaced electrical cable contact for oil temperature, and glued it to sensor with liquid aluminium.

- replaced rear brake light bulb, and cleaned contacts

- cleaned and lubricated main electrical contacts underneath seat

- added air front tire

- tightened carb rubber connectors both side

- washed bike

- cleaned and oiled air filter

- cleaned in-line fuel filter

- fixed fuel tap filter (left side, inside tank), which was loose, leaving the bike with no reserve.

- cleaned both gas tap filters (in tank)

- changed oil and filter 20w40 (2lt)

- changed final drive and transmission oil, 90w

- cleaned carbs and changed o-rings and needle

- greased driveshaft (no play)

- adjusted valves

- installed new rear shock (complete unit, 150nm spring)

- checked and replaced missing rubber gaskets in the box frame

- replaced broken rear view mirror (right side)

- replaced imo 300 remote

- replaced missing bolts in headlight assembly

- replaced mounting bracket and bolts in center stand bash plate

- replaced missing plastic retainers in headlight assembly

- adjusted valves

- cleaned carburator float bowls

- tightened loose bolts in frame

- changed oil 15w40 (2lt)

- changed transmission/final drive gear oil 80w90

- fixed broken seat

- soldered broken box frame, left side

- welded sidestand, cut and reset angle

- Changed oil 15w40

- Changed transmission / final drive oil 80w90

- checked and cleaned carburator float bowls

- retorqued left cylinder head

- adjusted valves

- lubricated starter and turnsignal switches

- fixed horn switch (added sealer to power cables at horn to keep in place)

- Fixed blinker left side, loose cable

- Fixed headlight adjustment with zip ties

- re-mounted mascot (new)

- replaced IMO remote button, rubber cover

- Fixed broken IMO remote button with liquid metal

- lubricated electrical connectors, relays, etc.

- re-glued windshield (crack)

- moved turnsignal cables further into the console to avoid handlebar

- Changed front tire (metzeler Enduro I)

- changed front brake pads, old ones were totally worn

- fixed heli-coil, by drilling hole in the front, and making a channel in the stud bolt, in order to get oil flow here. A test showed that no oil was flowing, so something had to be done. Afterwards worked fine.

- Added 1lt Oil

- Checked tire pressure

- installed a fabricated heli-coil (solid), into the top left stud (left side). This solved the problem with the loose bolt, as the head now torques to 35 (and more). The problem is the heli-coil is solid and doesn't allow for oil flow to the valves along the stud.

- Replaced the o-rings in the block, and the valve guide rubber connectors.

- replaced cylinder gasket, it blew just outside Adana in Turkey

- Removed the top left engine stud (left side), the last few threads were stripped. Decided to not install the heli-coil since I thought I would need a new stud. I cleaned the threads as good as possible, and re-installed the stud along with a little liquid metal. Retorqued the head, still doesn't torque to 35! Also screwed the stud as far in as possible, this only left a little left to attache the nut.

- made a rubber cushion on the left crash bar to support the tank .

- adjusted valves

- tightened loose bolt on left cylinder stud (doesn't torque to 35!)

- checked carb bowl

- tighten carb connectors

- dismantled the brake reservoir to check the condition of the piston. After cleaning still leaks, the rubber is worn.

- topped off brake fluid

- cleaned the o-ring on the brake fluid reservoir, trying to stop a leak. Still leaking, the problem is the piston.

- changed oil, 2lt 20w50

- changed transmission oil, gear box and final drive

- changed the oil filter